Chicago's Food Deserts Are Hazardous To Health

Government might be contributing to problem

Updated: Friday, 14 May 2010, 5:44 PM CDT
Published : Tuesday, 11 May 2010, 9:32 PM CDT

By Mark Saxenmeyer, FOX Chicago News

ADDITIONAL COVERAGE:

MAP: Where 100+ of the largest/most well-known grocery stores are

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Here's a challenge for you: on your way to work tomorrow, count the number of full service grocery stores you pass.

Fresh, nutritious food might be just around the corner in your neighborhood, but in some parts of Chicago, residents rely on stores that are more likely to stock Cheetos and Hawaiian Punch than apples and whole grain bread. And it gets worse.

FOX Chicago has uncovered reasons why the government might be contributing to unhealthy eating.

In some neighborhoods, you can go to the grocery store--or the grocery store (because they're only blocks apart). One full-service supermarket after another.

In other Chicago neighborhoods, the food store options look a little different, a lot different actually. Not a lot of full service, not a lot of anything.

In interviews with several small grocers, FOX found that some don't carry any vegetables or fruit, because, said one, "the coolers are broken." And another said he didn't carry meat because it wasn't the "regular" kind.

No Jewel, no Dominick's, but plenty of "mom and pop" places that sell plenty of chips and candy. Here, stores are busy stocking their shelves with juice and soda--some of their most popular items, they said.

That, and the booze. Lots of alcohol, but little else. A virtual "food desert."

According to Mari Gallagher, a food desert researcher, Chicago's food desert has a little over 600 thousand residents and the vast majority are African Americans.

A third are children, more than a hundred thousand are single mothers.

"Most of the food is fried, high salt, high fat, sugary there's little in terms of nutritional content," said Gallagher, whose research and consulting group has published two major studies on the subject. "In some of the Chicago communities, a pineapple is considered exotic," Gallagher revealed.

For at least 20 percent of all Chicagoans, the nearest full service grocery store is twice as far as the nearest fast food restaurant.

"If it's where you're getting your food day in and day out," said Gallagher. "Your health over time will suffer."

But how barren is the food desert really?

FOX Chicago pinpointed the locations of the 16 largest or best-known grocery stores and supermarkets that sell fresh food, including fruit, vegetables, dairy, meats and grains.

There are more than 100 such stores within the city limits.

For starters, on the far north side of the city you'll find four Dominick's stores, two Happy Foods, a Whole Foods and an Aldi.

Also on the north side, there are six major grocery stores between West Foster and West Irving Park Roads, including two Jewels and two Aldis.

There are a nearly two dozen stores in the Lakeview and Lincoln Park neighborhoods, including three Treasure Islands, three Whole Foods and four Dominick's.

And between North Avenue and Roosevelt Road, west of the the Kennedy, we counted at least 14 major stores.

But move west and all of a sudden the number of grocery outlets with a full array of healthy foods begins to drop precipitously.

And then there's the south side. This area represents more than 40 square miles, and full service grocers are few and far between.

Felena Bunn grew up in the south side food desert.

"There was nothing there," said Bunn. "You really have to take like half a day to leave your neighborhood and go shopping."

Some 64 thousand people who live in Chicago food desert neighborhoods don't have a car. So, to get to a grocery store that often means taking a bus or the el and then transferring to another bus in addition to dragging your kids along with you, and hauling any number of heavy bags on and off crowded public transportation. Grocery shopping isn't necessarily as easy and simple as some people would like to believe.

So instead, like many other young people here, Bunn spent her teens and her twenties eating junk food. Only junk.

"I'd go across the street and have a pizza puff, a burger and some fries and a lot of soda, lots and lots of soda," said Bunn. "I didn't try to find healthier choices until I had problems with my blood pressure."

"By the time my kidneys were failing it was just way too late," explained Bunn as she prepared for a self-dialysis. "I did so much damage that it was pretty irreversible."

Despite warnings from "every doctor," Bunn was unable to reverse her fate due to the lack of available healthy foods in her area.

Courtney Nicholas, the associate director of minority health programs for the American Kidney Fund, can't believe that the government has allowed the food deserts to continue.

Nicholas said Felena's story is similar to thousands of others in Chicago. In fact, research by the Fund indicates a definite correlation between the city's food deserts and kidney disease.

"The highest rates of kidney failure are on the west and south sides of the city," said Nicholas. "There are thousands who have high blood pressure and diabetes, which are often

silent issues."

In fact in this food desert on the west side, as much as 55 percent of everyone who lives there now has stage 2 kidney disease.

The Kidney Fund made the same correlation in the south side area. More than half of all the residents here are beginning to see their kidneys fail as well.

"It's really an epidemic," Gallagher deduced.

Gallagher's research also shows food desert residents have higher rates of diet-related cancers and heart disease.

For Chris Reguso, Chicago's acting Commissioner of the Department of Community Development, "it's a critical issue to the city."

But she says enticing major grocery chains into the food deserts isn't always easy, even with tax incentives.

"They're really looking at the bottom line," said Reguso. "If they go into a particular location, is it going to work for them and are they going to make a profit?"

The city points to some recent successes--a new Jewel on the south side and a Pete's Produce on the near west side. Changes that have technically helped move some 23,000 Chicagoans out of a food desert.

FOX Chicago asked major grocers Treasure Island, Dominick's, Trader Joes, Aldi and Whole Foods if they had plans to open stores in the desert areas. All of them said no, or had no comment.

"I want to show you a very sad one right here in the city," said Gallagher, pointing to a particular location on our food deserts map.

She suspects it's actually the federal government that might be inhibiting change, because many of the more than 2,000 Chicago retailers approved by the USDA to accept food stamps are the mom and pop stores FOX ventured into, operating in food deserts.

"The USDA says the food stamp stores are supposed to be the first line of defense against malnutrition in the US," Gallagher said.

According to the USDA, qualified stores that accept food stamps have to carry groceries from the four staple food groups: meats, bread, fruits and dairy.

"But customers will buy milk only maybe every three days," said one grocer dejectedly.

And many small stores in food desert areas don't carry items like wheat bread because they don't sell well and eventually go to waste, according to another grocer.

Gallagher also pointed out that despite the fact that most stores carry milk, many of them don't offer healthier options such as fat free milk instead of whole or skim milk.

During FOX's spot check of half a dozen of these stores in the food desert areas, clear cut compliance was hard to come by.

When asked if it is hard to sell healthy food, one grocer responded, "Well, they never ask for it"

Gallagher concluded, "Why should stores step up and offer healthier products if they don't have to?"

She says stores shouldn't be allowed to accept food stamps if the don't comply with USDA rules because by doing so they essentially become a willing and complicit party to poor eating habits and the health issues and diseases that follow.

FOX asked the Chicago office of the USDA to explain how the government makes sure all food-stamp approved stores are indeed selling the correct amount and variety of healthy foods as required by law. But the interview requests were declined. In a statement a spokesman aid the USDA has found that 99 percent of all its approved stores do comply with the regulations.

Reguso pointed out that the profit margins that most mainstream full-scale grocery stores see have dropped considerably. Data obtained by FOX shows it used to be that they would pocket about 80 cents on every dollar spent on food. Today it's more like 60 cents.

And in food deserts, which often tend to be lower socio-economic areas that struggle with crime and other social issues, those factors can also raise red flags for supermarket chains. Because ultimately, as it is in most businesses, it's not about health-- it's about the money, the bottom line.

If you'd like to see which full service grocery stores are closest to you, or you're curious about which areas of the city have hardly any to choose from, we've mapped out more than 100 of the largest and best known stores.

 

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